Because I was still concerned about the main puzzle joint in middle of the bottom of the boat, I called CLC to see what to do about it. I was told to sand the joint flat to make sure that the fiberglass will lay flat to the bottom. Sanding will take off the veneer, and I'll have to paint the bottom (they suggested white or light gray) or I could put a new non-slip material on the bottom. "Called SeaDek, it's nonskid padding that's marine-grade, UV-stable, self-adhesive, and can be cut on our CNC machine. Applied to the bottom of a small boat, it vastly improves your traction AND it's got enough cushioning (5mm) to protect your knees. The light gray color looks pleasing in all kinds of boats."
February 2, 2011
I spent most of the day "stitching" the planks on to the dory. This step is really cool because I ended up with something that looks like a dory. I've only hand tightened the copper wires, and will have to go back over the whole thing to tighten them up, especially fitting the transom into the stern of the boat. I was impressed with how well all the holes for the wires lined up (except for the transom). The pieces were well labeled and relatively easy to assemble. This part was fun because the dory really looked like a dory very quickly. The harder part will be working with the epoxy to hold everything together.
The first and second planks are in place. |
The dory is stitched together and finally looking like a boat. The wires need to be tightened and the transom needs to be adjusted, and then I'll be ready to start with the epoxy. |
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