January 29, 2011
I continued sanding the joints of the planks 1 and 2 and took the weighs off planks 3 and 4. The puzzle joints in the planks seem to be fine, and I've been able to sand the epoxy smooth. I duct taped the hose from the shop vac to the orbital sander--wished I'd figured out this solution a long time ago. Much of the dust gets sucked into the shop vac.
I used my new rasp to taper the rabbeted edge of planks 2, 3, and 4. I may need to do a little sanding too because the rasp left tiny grooves. The instructions say the taper or "gain" should be 4" long and taper to almost zero. I rearranged things a little in the cellar and set up two sawhorses to start "stitching" the dory together.
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I have already tapered the "gain" on the planks on the left. The planks on the right were the way they arrived from CLC.
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Attached plank 1 to the bottom with the copper wire. I was impressed with the precision of the way the pieces were cut out. The holes for the wire were already pre-drilled, and the pieces matched up just the way they were supposed to.
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Plank 1 is attached to the bottom with thin copper wires. |
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I started putting in the bulkheads. It was a little trickier to put them in than I thought they would be. I had to use the rasp to round off the tenon to fit in the mortise, and then wired them to the bottom. I started to wire the bulkhead to plank one but that made it difficult to put in the other bulkheads. I decided to wait until I had them all wired to the bottom before doing the plank.
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Wiring bulkheads to the bottom
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PRO TIP: this is isn't in the manual, but on our dory build we read ahead and decided to cut the styrofoam flotation thingies before the bulkheads were glued in, i.e. at this point.
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