Shaping boom and tiller extension; Cotton swab test for epoxy

In the afternoon, I shaped the boom by tapering one end and rounding off all the edges.  Using my power planer and router, it didn't take long to do it.  It took me awhile to find a drawing in the manual to show me how much it should taper because it really wasn't spelled out in the text. 

I also shaped the tiller extension, but there wasn't much in the instructions. Fortunately I had some pictures from the Okoume Fest.  Except for the last couple of inches on each end, I just rounded off all the edges and then sanded everything with a fine grit sandpaper.

In addition to the mast, the boom and tiller extension are almost ready to varnish.

I put another coat of epoxy on the daggerboard.  Once I get another coat on, it should be ready to varnish, along with the rudder and spars.  I was glad to find the cotton swab test for epoxy coats in the CLC web site.  I had heard about the test at epoxy workshop at Okoume Fest but because I wasn't sure I remembered it right, I was glad to find it on the site.


The Cotton Swab Test shop tip on CLC web site:
"When is the best time to apply the next coat of resin? It all depends. But if your schedule allows, you will get the strongest bond when the prior coat is not yet cured. But if you do it too early, when the prior coat is still wet, you may float up the fiberglass, or you may not create the build you want. If you wait too long, you will need to sand.
MAS Epoxies suggests a "cotton ball" test. When the epoxy is still wet the cotton ball will not stick. When the resin is too dry, the cotton won't stick. In between this two extremes is a period when the epoxy has stiffened up somewhat but is still tacky. During this period, the resin will grab the cotton fibers and pull on the ball or swab. This is the best time to apply another coat.
While the epoxy is tacky, new coats will not mix in with the prior coat, or get under the fiberglass. If you wait longer it is not a big deal, but you will need to check for blush, and clean it off, and then you will need to sand. As long as you can push your thumb nail (the "rule of thumb") into the dry resin, you do not need a heavy sanding, but a light sanding will promote a better bond."